![]() This Portuguese recipe for salt cod with potatoes and olives seems basic enough, but it is the most superb way of cooking salt cod that I know. Drain briefly on kitchen paper and eat while still hot. Heat the oil to 325F/170C and deep-fry dessertspoonfuls of the batter, pushing them carefully off the spoon into the hot oil. Beware, however, of being landed with nothing but the cartilaginous and highly gelatinous 'shoulder' right at the top. Ideally you want a piece cut from the wider upper part of the fish, where you will get a good thickness of flesh. Still, if you are lucky enough to have the choice, try to buy your salt cod from a shop where they stock whole, large (a good 1 1/2 ft/0.5m long) triangular pieces. Again, the quality is not top-notch, but it is perfectly acceptable. The other vendors are either the West Indian shops, or the local Safeway (this branch really does cater for its community), which sell salt cod in small packets. It is very salty and the allocation of waste per wedge is high. You can see why the triangles of fish are small and scrawny. The best quality is to be found in the Italian and Portuguese delis, but they often run out, in which case I turn to the nearby fishmonger, who sells what is proudly vaunted as the 'cheapest salt cod in north London'.
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